Sunday 22nd July

Got up reasonably leisurely, to find a cracking morning outside.

 We put our names on the waiting list for breakfast at the W Cafe and had a coffee in The Bean, where (Am)Erica works part time. 

We drank our coffee outside, using their WiFi while we hung around for the cafe to give us a holler. When we went in for breakfast, Kev ordered chicken fried steak, with cream gravy, and I had a fry-up. 

The W Cafe was very busy

After breakfast, we walked back to the motel and got our bikes  Today our planned  (mwahahaha) destination was Durango. Just outside Gunnison, we came across the Blue Mesa Reservoir, which RT 50 runs beside, crosses then runs beside again..

 Not sure about that pose

We'd intended visiting the Black Canyon, but didn't actually see it. we left RT 50 to go and have a look but then, when we realised we'd have to pay $10 each, decided not to because we're COBs..The little road up to the rahgers' booth was quite nice and had some great views.

We headed on to Montrose to pick up the 550 South, which includes the Million Dollar Highway, from Ouray to Silverton. It rained hard south of Montrose, so we quickly put jackets on. I still hadn't unpacked my bubble visor, so it stung my face like mad - HTFU Rod! It stopped raining before we hit Ouray, so we arrived there dryish and stopped for coffee. While Kev got coffee, I unpacked half my bag to get at the visor. Boy, was I glad I did.

Ouray

Just as we were preparing to leave Ouray, it began to rain again. As we headed south, out of town, a deer or caribou walked across the road in front of us, still in the town. Kevin had been dreading this bit as he hates mountain roads, especially when they have sheer drops and no form of guard rail. If the Million Dollar Highway was his nemesis, it was going to be it in spades, because it began to rain harder and harder, the further we climbed. 

There's some debate over the origin of the "Million Dollar" name.  In Jamie Jensen's Road Trip USA: California and the Southwest, there are several explanations.  One possibility: it cost about a million dollars to pave the route back in the 1930's.  Another: an early traveler swore he would never travel the curvy, steep road again, "even if you paid me a million dollars!".  The third is probably the best: the road was paved with gravel from nearby gold and silver mines.  Later, it was discovered that the rock was still rich in ore, possibly worth a million dollars or more.

I love mountain roads  and for the last few years have ridden most of the European Mountain ranges. A heavily loaded 1979 FLH isn't the most nimble of bikes, The torrential rain, now with thunder and lightning, made the sinuous road even more of a challenge. Poor Kevin! .There are several bits, on the ascent of the Red Mountain Pass, where there is only a couple of feet between the edge of the road and a sheer drop.

Although the rain was foul, I enjoyed my ride over the San Juan Mountains and was able to get into a rythm in the bends.  I left Kev to come at his own pace. Of course, Sod's Law, as we reached the summit of the Red Mountain Pass, over 11,000 feet above sea level, it stopped raining.  This made  the ride down to Silverton even more fun, for me! On the way down, my front brake went again, locked on, then no pressure or stopping power to the front brake lever.I waited for Kevin in Silverton, while my front brake cooled. There must be air in the front line.

By the time he arrived at Silverton, poor Kev was longing for the monotonous straight roads of our first week's ride, even if it meant just seeing corn. My front master cylinder still had plenty of fluid in, so it must be some air in there, or the fluid boiling. 

Having waited long enough for there to be a little bit of feel in the front brake, I set off again so Kev could make his own pace. By now the sun was out and the next climb was less demanding. I had great fun, overtaking cars and loving the bends, until suddenly I had no back brake! It was just as though the line had been cut. I'd not used my front brake on this climb and descent, so was able to use it to stop at Cascade Creek, to wait for Kevin and let the back brake cool. Some investigation tomorrow, I think. I was waiting to photograph Kef as he came into sight.

Before he set off again, dreading the thought of more twisties and drops, Kev felt his discs to make sure they weren't going to boil his fluid.

I sat on the Armco, smoking and waiting for my brakes to cool.

After about five minutes Kev arrived back at Cascade Creek, having found that the road ahead quickly became a level road,  with no scary corners, so i could cool my brakes as I rode. We set off again for Durango. From the road you could see a forest fire on a mountain to the east of Durango.

Somewhere along the way, we came across a narrow gauge steam train.

As we were nearly at Durango, we were getting covered in ash from the fire on the mountain.

We did a run up and down the road, in Durango, looking for accommodation. We chose the Sierra Motel because it was near the Serious Texas Bar-B-Q.

The Sierra is OK and got decent WiFi, the Bar-B-Q was shite!

 Today Kevin met his nemesis -zoom in!!